Vacation in Southern Laos--Don Khone (1-16)

The second stop of my journey was Don Khone, one of the islands in the Mekong River at the very southern end of Laos. The area is known as the 4000 islands. Most that I saw are very small. The three largest are set up for tourists. I chose to stay on the one that is described as being quiet. It was a good choice.

The town itself is about 1 km long and is mostly guest houses. Villagers’ homes are outside town. There are a few old French houses in town. There is a school that has ruins of an old house on its grounds. Children play in it.

After settling in at the guest house, I set out on a walk. I found a map at a restaurant/guest house shop that turned out to be a good purchase. The first day I decided to walk to the waterfall outside town. 

On the way, I stopped at the old wat. I enjoyed watching the water buffalo in the fields. 

And the pigs, which are different from ones I’ve seen elsewhere.

Li Phi waterfall features water coming from several places and flowing among the huge rocks into a narrow canyon. I also walked down the path to the beach on the river. There the water is quiet.

That night there was loud music, which surprised me, since the island is supposed to be quiet. In the morning I went for a walk before breakfast and found the big stage where the music had come from. That day, 30 December, there was a big celebration. There was a market set up in the street. After breakfast I rented a bicycle, which is the main transportation around the island. Almost every place rents them. I decided to ride around the other side of the island to Khong Soi waterfall. 

When I went through the market, I noticed that people were standing around along the river waiting for something. Soon a long boat came by, and I realized that there were going to be long boat races. I watched the boats practice for a while and then rode on.

The road went along a river. In one place there were water buffalo in the river, which I don’t usually see. 

The waterfall is small but quiet. I was the only person there. In the river there was a huge contraption I think is some kind of fish trap. There wasn’t anyone I could ask about it.

I then continued around the island, riding through a forested area to the port from which one can get a boat to see the Irawaddy dolphins. I decided to do this and hooked up with a Swiss couple to share a boat. The dolphins are fresh water dolphins that come to this area between December and May. They don’t come high out of the water, but we were fortunate to see about twelve. We could see several well enough to see their arched backs. The boat goes out into the river and then stops so passengers can watch for dolphins. You really have to watch a spot and keep your eyes there or you will miss the quick jump. Across the river is Cambodia. The boats can only go half way across, as that is where the border is.

When I returned to town, I looked for a tour to Khong Prapheng waterfall. I had decided that I wanted to go there, partly because it is advertised as “the big waterfall” and partly because Khun Dakom had told me about it and how beautiful it is. It seemed like something I should do while I was in the area. I went to a few places that advertised tours, but they didn’t have anyone going. One man told me to find a friend, as they need two people to take a tour. Then another man then agreed to take me alone for only a few dollars more than I would pay if I had a friend; so on I went. He took me by boat to the port on the mainland. Then he put me on a motorcycle with another man. The ride was 30 minutes, the longest motorcycle ride I’d had for over thirty years. I had no idea it would be so far. The sign at the waterfall calls it “the pearl of Asia.” It is the largest waterfall in Asia—or in southeast Asia. I’ve seen it described both ways. I have also seen it described as the widest waterfall in Asia—or in the world. Either way, there is a huge volume of water flowing. It’s amazing to think of that amount of water in the same river that is quiet elsewhere.

The third day I rented a bicycle again. First I went to the wat. Then I crossed the river on the old French bridge that was used by the train to Don Det. Don Det has many more tourist guest houses than Don Khone. They just went on and on. The river looks different there; so I was glad I went. 

I stopped at the wat and ate lunch at a noodle shop. When I returned to Don Khone, I went back to Li Phi waterfall because I decided to buy a silk shawl I’d seen. The woman weaves them there and was happy to have sold one. A man was doing the selling that day, but the woman thanked me as I left. Then it was time to return the bicycle and eat dinner.

Since my guest house was not on the river side of town, I decided to eat dinner every night at a restaurant on the river. Each night I arrived early so I would be there for sunset, and each night I was rewarded with a lovely sunset. Also good food. I had expected dinners to be more expensive on the island because so much has to be brought in by boat, but the prices were quite reasonable. Breakfast was as expensive as dinner, I think because more of the breakfast foods had to be brought in. Bottled water was twice as much as in Pakse. Food always took a long time to come because everything was cooked after it was ordered. The last night I had a local specialty—fish cooked in banana leaf.

The river: People use the river for washing clothes, bathing, and swimming. It is amazingly wide. I read that it is10-14 km wide in some places in this area. Going from Don Khone to Don Det and realizing that both are in the middle of the river was amazing. Seeing the river in Champassak, it is hard to believe the difference.

Vacation in Southern Laos--Bolaven Plateau (1-16)

The tour was quite good. We had ten people from eight countries—France, Belguim, Hong Kong/China, Australia, Germany, Italy, Slovenia, and the U.S. The guest house has its own guides; so we had a guide, Lang, in the van with us. The Bolaven Plateau is 700-1000 meters high and is known for its coffee and tea plantations. 

Our first stop was an organic tea plantation owned by a Vietnamese family. Lang explained the growing and harvesting processes. Tea grows at elevations of 600-900 meters. Plants are cut every five years to keep them small, the highest being about five feet. The quality of tea is better during the dry season because the plants grow more slowly. At this time, leaves can be picked every 15 days while they are picked weekly during the wet season. The leaves are then dried. 60-70 kilos of leaves produce 5 kilos of dried leaves.

Next we stopped at the first of three waterfalls: Tad Fone. Since they are across the river, they can be viewed only from a distance.

Then we went to a coffee plantation. I learned more about coffee than I’ve ever known. I’d seen plants before but hadn’t been to a plantation. I was surprised at how big the trees get. They grow both Arabica and Robusta coffee beans. Most trees are the former, but the latter are now in more demand and are plantations are changing to grow more Robusta trees. I read later that Arabica coffee beans are mostly used in instant coffee and mass-produced coffee. So it made sense that Arabica is more popular now, as specialty coffees and coffee shops are increasingly popular. The fruit on the trees is called “cherries” and each cherry produces two beans. Coffee is harvested from October to December; so we were there at the end of the season. Coffee trees live up to 40 years.

On the way to the coffee factory, we stopped at Tad Greung waterfall. It is in a beautiful setting. We walked along the river and then to the bottom of the waterfall.

Since coffee is the main source of income on the Plateau, every village has a processing factory. The beans are soaked in water. Those that sink are the best quality. Those that float are second quality. The soaked beans go to the fermentation tub. Then they are spread on racks to dry. They are considered to be dried when the moisture level is about 11%. This is determined by weight. Drying the beans takes about two weeks. They are then sent to Vietnam for export, since Laos is a landlocked country. It is the dried beans that are exported. They are then are roasted in Europe.

I also read later, at a restaurant that is affiliated with a Laotian-owned- coffee plantation, that most plantations and factories are owned by Vietnamese who don’t pay their Laotian employees well. And, if they are Vietnamese-owned, most of the profit is not going to local people.

Next we stopped at two ethnic group villages. Both are stops for tourists who take day tours, which provides income for the villages. The guest house has tours almost daily at this time of the year and three or four times a week in the low season. Other tours also visit the villages, but not the school in the second village. 

First was an Atak village. The village was founded in 1971 when the Atak people were moved from the Vietnam border to the Bolaven Plateau. About 40 families live in the village, with 2-4 families living in one house. The people speak their native dialect, but most also speak Lao. Children attend a school that is about one kilometer away. This is an animist village and the spirit house is at its center.It is used only on special occasions to sacrifice animals. Pigs roam around the village but are only killed for ceremonies. Chicken is eaten.

The next village was a Katou village. Kok Phang Tai village was founded in 1974. The guest house sponsors the school here

 and has recently helped build a new library. The foundation also provided a water pipe for the village; so water is readily accessible. 

About 1000 people live in the village. Families are big and have up to ten children.

 Before they die, people purchase a coffin for their body. These are not buried but are set on top of the ground in the burial ground. They used to be made of wood, but now people prefer concrete, as it is cheaper.

The next stop was Tad Lo waterfall. We were lucky, as the water was low the previous day because the dam had not been opened. It was in full flow when we were there.

On the way back we stopped at a weaving village. Women use a foot loom. They were selling their goods, mostly scarves. Since they were unique and like to purchase from such women, I bought two. When it started to look like I was a serious buyer, several women surrounded me, which is overwhelming.

We were also lucky to have a beautiful sunset on the way back. Lang had the driver stop so we could take photos. It was a long but excellent day. I was ready to eat dinner and rest when we arrived back in Pakse.

Vacation in Southern Laos--Pakse (1-16)

Since I work at a Catholic school, we had a week’s vacation between Christmas and New Year’s. (We didn’t have the harvest break in November; so the week off keeps the number of school days the same as for the other schools.) I decided to go to southern Laos for the week.

On 26 December I took the Ubon-Pakse bus to Laos. This is a three-hour trip, including the stop at the border for passengers to depart from Thailand and enter Laos. About half way, the bus attendant gave us the visa forms for Laos. When I looked at it, the first thing I saw was the little box in the top, right corner for a photo. Gulp. I had forgotten to take photos. I keep the passport photos with the passport, but, since I had used it and hadn’t put it away, I didn’t see—or think of—the photos. I could get off the bus at the border, return home, and take the bus to Pakse again on the next day. Or I could take a chance that there would be a place to get a photo taken at the border. I decided on the latter even though I’ve never seen a photo place at a border before. There was none.  I had nothing to lose at that point and went on to the visa counter. When the man asked for a photo, I told him I’d forgotten them and asked if there was some place I could get one. He said maybe he’d let me enter anyway. And he did. I was very thankful. I thought that was pretty smart of him, since I would then spend my money in Laos that night instead of spending it on a bus to Ubon and back.

After checking into the guest house, I took off for the wat in town. However, I didn’t turn right soon enough and ended out at a point past the wat. After a while, I realized that I was not where I wanted to be but decided to keep walking along the river toward the bridge. 

I came to another wat and explored it. I went inland a couple blocks and found the New Market, which is described as the largest market in the country. I walked through the gold section and part of the clothes section, but I was tired and it was more than I wanted to take in at that time. 

So I retraced my steps along the river and found Wat Luang, which was where I was originally headed. 

There are several restaurants along the river and I decided to eat there one night. But this first night, I ate at an Indian restaurant, since one of my pleasures of traveling is eating food I don’t eat at home. Back at the guest house, I was able to join a tour to the Bolaven Plateau the next day. I had read about their tour online and had asked about it when I registered, but they didn’t have a tour going yet. Their price is about 25% of what a nearby travel agency charges, and they didn’t have one going yet, either. I really wanted to get this taken care of and was very happy when I returned and learned that the guest house had a tour going. Not only could I do it for the lower price, but I didn’t have to look around any more. I had looked at descriptions of a few tours, and they all looked basically the same. [Description in Part 2]

My third day in Pakse was for relaxing. I had a pleasant walk around the center of town, which is not large. I meandered around and looked in a few shops. Buildings are a combination of the old French-style and Lao style.

I found the indoor market in the center of town and walked around it. On the way out, I found several fabric stalls, my weakness. I purchased several pieces. I will use some and will give some to my friends. 

I stopped at the Catholic church. I planned to stop at the guest house and drop off my purchases, as my bag was a little heavy and then go to the museum out of town. However, I took a wrong road and ended out halfway to the museum. The streets in Pakse go in funny angles; so it was not difficult to end out somewhere else. Fortunately, it was on the way to where I wanted to go.

On the way to the museum I stopped at an old wat and the Chinese temple. 

Both were interesting. Chinese temples are beginning to look pretty much the same wherever I go, but the old wats always have some interesting art. The wat had a sign that welcomed people to a tourist destination but did not have the name of the wat on it. 

The museum was small and had a few interesting items. An unusual display was one of American weapons.

Since I was a little tired from the long walk and it was hot, I took a songtaew back to town. After dropping off my bag at the guest house, I headed to the river for dinner. I was lucky to have a beautiful sunset as a background.

Several places in town were decorated for the holidays, which really felt strange here—even more so than in Thailand. I think it’s for the tourists. Again, the spirit was missing.

I especially enjoyed the spirit houses in town—and elsewhere in this part of Laos—as many are unique in style.