Half Way (3-30)

My orchid is blooming for the last time for me. Two others are starting to send up flower shoots, but they won't bloom till I'm gone.















The summer course is half over; two of the four weeks are finished. I can’t complain about the work load: I am teaching four hours a week. The original schedule had me teaching eight hours of 5th and 6th grades along with Kru Irene. The first day she mentioned having a reading and writing test on the last day of classes. I asked if we were teaching reading and writing, since the book that Kru Toom had prepared for 6th grade was grammar exercises. Kru Irene said maybe we would have some short paragraphs. I also mentioned that we should teach the vocabulary before doing the exercises and that it’s a good idea to have reading, writing, and grammar coordinated to use the same vocabulary and structures. A few hours later, Kru Toom told me that I will teach 6th grade and Kru Irene will teach 5th grade. When I asked if that was because Kru Irene didn’t want to work with me, she gave a noncommittal answer that they thought it would be better. Kru Irene is very controlling and most likely didn’t like my having suggestions that weren’t the same as hers. I can’t complain about the lighter schedule and the lack of frustration from trying to work with her and actually teach the students, not just complete grammar exercises without further practice.

My class has twelve students: three girls and nine boys. After talking with Kru Toom, I scratched the grammar exercises and am teaching basic questions—reading, writing, and speaking—and the grammar structures that go with them. A few of the students are OK with what I’m teaching. Others can do it with effort. And a few can’t do it without assistance (i.e. copying) from their friends. I’m pretty sure several of the boys are ADHD; they have the attention span of a fly. So, keeping them on task is a challenge.

Kru Irene is the only Thai teacher teaching English in the summer course, which I find interesting. Other than her class, all English classes are taught by us foreign teachers. The other teachers teach six to eight hours a week. None of us are overworking. We spend a lot of time on the Internet. I read books. The others play computer games. The time passes, although we do get bored.

The other part of our summer course assignment is to do morning entertainment (our word, not the official description) for half an hour. We’ve divided into two groups; so we each have to do this only twice a week. The Chinese teachers do it one day, too. It’s Sister Viphaporn’s idea that students will learn some English—or Chinese—this way. But the reality is that they do not pay attention and do not respond and participate. So it’s basically a waste of time.

In general, people are friendlier now than they were during the term. Less stress overall. More teachers greet me, often in English. In our office, we chat a bit more. I was aware how much the 8th grade classes’ behavior affected me, but not having to deal with that has made me even more aware of how they affected my whole manner.

Sunday I decided to go to the village. My weekend students didn’t come on Saturday or the weekend before; so I didn’t feel obligated to stay home waiting for them on Sunday. (They paid for the month when I saw them the first weekend.) I had been thinking about having Khun Noi make some skirts from my Laos fabric and decided that Sunday was the day to take it to her. When Khun Toy and Bitoy met me in Lue Amnat, she immediately suggested that I stay for dinner and the night. When she said that Bitoy would cook dinner for me, I knew I had to stay. We went to see Khun Noi and visited Khun Ying. Then we went to meet Khun Teamjan at her relative’s farm. I relaxed and read and slept in the hammock while they chatted and slept and Khun Toy had a massage.

For dinner, Bitoy and I were a team to make shrimp and flower tempura. I’d not had fried flowers before. Khun Toy picked them from her trees. Bitoy and I are a good team. She’s at the age (10-12) when students here seem to relate most to me. They have enough confidence to use the bit of English that they know, and we can joke around and have fun. Khun Toy cooked a chicken and made the ant egg and pak wan (Thai herb) soup that I like. Khun Teamjan and Khun Suwit joined us for dinner, of course.

The dinner was the perfect thing for her to cook for me. Earlier in the week I’d had a dream that I was in Flagstaff and my friends took me to one of the Thai restaurants. When the menus came, they asked me what was good and what my favorite Thai food is. I could only think of the foods that Khun Toy cooks, such as the fish or chicken wrapped in leaves or lettuce and served with her special, homemade peanut sauce, that are not on the menu. Or, if a variation, such as lettuce wrap, is on the menu, it wouldn’t be the same to me. So, her serving the chicken wraps with lettuce and her peanut sauce was my dream dinner. I told her about the dream, and I think she understood the gist—that I will miss her cooking. Her summary was that, when I am in the U.S., I will think about and miss my Thai friends. Which is true.

I was glad I went and glad I stayed for dinner and the night. It’s always so nice to be with them. Khun Adin drove me home in the morning. Khun Toy got up early to cook fried fish and sticky rice for our breakfasts and noodles and tofu and rice for our lunches. I will miss her food as well as her.

Khun Yindee called me last week to tell me that I can’t go to the retreat in Chaiyapum with Khun Kasemsri. Khun Kasemsri didn’t want to tell me the bad news; so Khun Yindee got that job. Someone had to tell me sometime. The reason I can’t go with her is that she is going to Korat afterwards and is not coming directly home; so I would have to take a bus alone. I refrained from pointing out that I travel by bus alone all the time and it’s fine with me, as I know Thai thinking is that leaving me on my own would not be being a good hostess/friend. Khun Yindee had also been talking with Khun Toy, who wanted me to go to Wat Hua Don with her; so that’s the new plan. I was disappointed not to be able to go with Khun Kasemsri, as I’d looked forward to spending the time with her and Aemmy as well as to going to the retreat in a new place. On the other hand, I do like Wat Hua Don and am always happy to be with Khun Toy. A few days later I got an e-mail and Facebook invitation to the retreat at Wat Hua Don from Phra Kong. Then Khun Toy called to tell me she wants me to go with her. She was so excited that my enthusiasm overcame the disappointment. I’ll go to the village the night before and have dinner with everyone and pick up my new clothes, which will also be fun.

My new student came three times and then brought her 7th grade cousin along. Then they asked if they can come every day now that school is out. I agreed, since I enjoy them and we finish school earlier. Also because I’m not really working much at school and am not exhausted when I arrive home. They’ve been fun to work with. Pu Pu is smart and sharp. Ammy reminds me of former LD students who are slow processing. She’s not as confident but sometimes answers correctly when Pu Pu doesn’t. They’re different but get along and work together well.

A Brief Get-away (3-16)

Last week was the last week of the term at school. Students finished their final exams, and teachers finished grading them. I also finished calculating final grades and recording them in the official record books. Students had a field trip one day.

On Friday, there were special ceremonies for the graduating 6^th and 9^th grade students. I learned about this by chance when I was walking around for a bit of exercise. Typical. Since I wasn’t really doing much and I did teach one 6^th grade class, I decided to attend their ceremony. One of the teachers was the lay leader who did the chanting/praying. The other teachers there were seated around the center with him. Students sat in a circle around us. A ball of string was passed around and everyone held onto a piece of string during the ceremony. Afterwards, Sister Viphaporn and Sister Oranut came in and talked to the students. Then there was string tying. I was surprised that the Sisters participated in this. They both tied a string on me before they left to go to the other ceremony. I was also surprised when I was given a bunch of strings and students lined up for me to tie one on their wrists. When they were finished getting strings/blessings from the teachers, the students got together with their friends, and many cried. This was their last day together.

The graduation ceremony for kindergarten and 9^th grade was on Saturday. I missed that, since I didn’t know about it until I’d made plans to leave for the weekend. I didn’t feel bad about missing it because I didn’t teach those classes. Pim asked if I would be there, and I would have gone if I’d been in town.

I decided to leave for the weekend and two extra days to have a short break between the term and the summer course. (I didn’t have official permission to take two days off, but I was good and texted on Monday and Tuesday that I would not be at school that day.) It was also the last weekend for a while in which Tom would be available for a visit. Friday night I took a bus to Bangkok. My first stop on Saturday morning was the used book store where I trade books. I was able to get 11 books, only two of which I paid for. Then I met Tom and we went for brunch and a long chat. It was good to connect with him again. He’s my only American friend in the country now, and we do get along well. After he left, I stopped at the Thai Crafts show, not realizing that they closed at 3:00, which was when I arrived. However, a few stalls were still packing up and I was able to pick up a few items that I wanted to get.

Sunday I left Bangkok for Kao Yai National Park, which is between Bangkok and here. I’d arranged to stay at a guest house that offers tours and free pick up in town if you book a tour. The first tour was Sunday afternoon. I joined three young French men, a French woman, and a Spanish man. It was me and the 20-somethings, but everyone was friendly and we all chatted. Our guide was great. 

Our first stop was a natural spring where people can swim. When we got out of the truck, there was a mustached/blue crested lizard on a nearby tree branch. The pool was crowded with Thais enjoying the afternoon out; so the group decided to move on and return to swim later—after dark when it wouldn’t be crowded. This turned out to be a good decision, as it gave us more time in the cave so we weren’t rushed.

Next we went to the bat cave at Wat Sarnamai. It’s quite large and is home to several hundred insect bats. Manit knew just where to shine his flashlight for us to see them, as they come home to the same place every day. Since it was late afternoon, some were starting to fly around, getting ready to go out for the night. Manit said they don’t take tourists into the cave in the morning because it would disturb the bats’ sleep. Manit was able to pick up one bat and spread its wings for us to see. It didn’t seem to be disturbed by this. Maybe it’s the same bat he always displays; so it’s used to him. The bats migrate in the cold season, since it’s not cold enough for them to hibernate. They just returned to the cave a couple weeks ago.

The bats, of course, produce guana. Every two weeks people go to the cave to collect it. They can sell what they collect for about 24,000 bahts (about $800). It’s high in potassium and makes good fertilizer. It can also be used to make gunpowder and powder for fireworks when sulfur and something else are added.

The cave is also home to other forms of life. Manit pointed out two tarantula nests. They were holes in the cave walls that were covered with webbing so we could hardly see the tarantula inside, which was OK with us. He also picked up a scorpion spider. It really doesn’t look like either, but it is a variety of spider. Since it was still and didn’t move around, most of us also held it. The Spanish man let Manit put it on his neck. On my hand was good enough for me. Next he found a variety of centipede. It was pretty active, so I wasn’t about to handle it.

The cave is a special place; so there were a number of Buddhas and altars. Manit told us that one place is used by monks for meditation.

After we exited the cave, we were given chips and a banana and had a brief rest before moving on. I walked up to the wat. There is a nice view of the area from there.

The next stop was the evening bat cave where we waited to see the bats flying out. The cave is high on a hill. These are wrinkled lip bats. About two million of them live in the cave and fly out every evening. They looked like a long stream of smoke or a black jet stream.

On the way back we stopped again at the natural spring. A few of the people swam. I sat with my feet in the water, which was relaxing. No one else was there; so the quiet was nice.

Monday I joined the French woman and Spanish man again, a Polish couple, and three young American women who are doing a semester at Khon Kaen University. The latter were interesting to talk to. This was our day in the national park, which is a World Heritage site and is known as a refuge for wild elephants and hornbills. Again, we had an excellent guide who loves the wildlife and loves taking photos. He often took our cameras to get close up shots.

At the first stop, we looked for and saw a hornbill. We heard birds and gibbons but didn’t see them. Just listening to all the sounds was amazing. We saw a hornbill in a distant tree and two flying. Then there was a movement in the trees. Our guide was excited, as this meant an elephant was there eating. After a bit, we saw the elephant’s back. The guide ran up the road and motioned us to follow, which we, of course, did. From there we could see the elephant move toward the road. Then it turned and went another direction. That elephant lives in that territory and is often, but not daily, seen. So we were lucky.

A little farther down the road another elephant emerged from the forest and crossed the road. So we now had seen two wild elephants. We were happy.

As we drove on the next section, there were monkeys along the road. Some of them ran along the road after us. 

Then we got out of the vehicle and walked for a bit, looking for gibbons. There are a couple that live in that area, but they were not visible that day. So, back to the truck and on we went.

Next was our first long walk in the forest—about an hour and a half. The tour provided leech socks for this walk, but I wore the ones Jackie gave me. They were recommended on the website; so I had them with me, not knowing they would be provided. Besides, it gave me an opportunity to finally use mine. Some of the trail was wet, and the leeches live on the wet ground. We also walked through water and mud in some places. We saw leeches, and the guide picked a couple up to show them to us. It was interesting to see how they move with their front and back ends down and the middle in an arch above the ground. When they move, they elongate and become thin. The guide carried a big telescope so we could look at the animals he located. We saw a blue and yellow bird and an orange bird. 

There was a viper (poisonous) on a fern. It was very close to the trail, and the guide put our cameras under the leaves so he could get close up shots of the viper’s head. We saw gibbons swinging high in the trees. When we went back to the road, there was a barking deer lying beside the road.

We ate lunch on a log along the road. Then we went to the trail for our next walk—another hour and a half. When the guide said we were going to go looking for crocodiles, I thought he was joking. But when we came to a river, there was a crocodile sunning on a log. As we walked on, there were several signs warning people in Thai and English to beware of crocodiles. 

At one place there were a lot of butterflies gathered drinking. The guide said they are drinking the minerals in the water there. Some of them were very attracted to one woman’s shoe. The guide took our cameras again and took close up shots of the butterflies. It was a lovely place to relax for a while. After relaxing there, we headed up the hill to the road and our truck.

Next we went to Haew Suwat Waterfall. This is famous because it is the waterfall that was jumped off of in the movie The Beach. So, I’ve now seen the beach and the waterfall featured in that movie but haven’t seen the movie. Unfortunately, the pool beneath the waterfall was closed for swimming. Apparently, the water is not clean now. So we relaxed for a while and then moved on.

We headed up the road in search of the evening elephants, but they were not out that night. We saw a number of droppings along the road but no elephants. So, we turned around to go back to return to town. Then we turned off the road and stopped along with a couple other trucks. The gathering of tourist vehicles reminded me of such gatherings in Africa. The guides communicate and let each other know when something has been sited. There were also a few serious photographers with huge telescopes with cameras attached to the lenses. 

They were viewing the hornbills in the trees. 

The other tourists were also viewing a bearcat in a nearby tree. Our guide was very excited to have both animals there. We watched one and then the other. He took my camera to take photos for me. I got some good ones on my own, too, even though the birds were quite far away. The photographers were waiting for the moment when the hornbills would fly out of the trees. They apparently knew that that would happen, and it eventually did.

In one place on the way out of the park, there were a number of monkeys sitting along the side of the road. It reminded me of people in villages and in Ninh Binh sitting outside their homes in the evening. It was a great day. I was really glad to have taken the tour and to have given myself this small getaway.

Monday I spent the whole day coming home. When we arrived in Pak Chong, I was lucky and got on a bus to Korat immediately. There I had an hour and a half wait till the bus to Ubon left. When I got on the bus, I knew it was not going to be a great trip and would probably be a long one. The bus had been there for a while, and I had thought it was a bus before mine. When I finally figured out that it was my bus and got on, there were no available seats. I got off and told the man that, and he got on and found a place for me on the bench at the back. It was right beside the toilet, which is not a good place to sit, and there was a slight odor already. But, as the bus filled up even more, I was happy to have a seat. When we left, there were about twelve people standing. They stood for the first two hours when the bus stopped and some people got out. New people got on and stood, and the two men in front of me were still standing. Fortunately the toilet was not being used; it may have been out of order. I realized after a while that the odor was from the dog in a box near where I was sitting. At the first stop, a huge package was loaded and put in that place and the dog and its odor were moved. We arrived at the first stop in good time, but after that the bus went off the direct route and arrived at the second stop an hour later than usual. After that, we went on a tour of small towns, dropping people off. When we arrived in Ubon after nine hours (A direct trip takes five and a half.), there were only ten of us on the bus. But I was home.

At school Wednesday I learned that I hadn’t missed anything. Most of the time we’re just hanging out and doing our own thing. Thai teachers have their records to do, but we are finished. There was a little work to do entering grades into the official computer and computing the 20% to give to the class teachers. The fact that we foreigners teach 50% of students’ English classes and it counts for only 20% of students’ grades still irritates me. Why should the students care what they do for me/us when they know they will most likely pass the Thai teacher’s part of the class and it is most of their grade? Our work is not valued or considered to be important. (I don’t care about the science and math, as I don’t think the part taught in English should be part of students’ grades in the subjects. In fact, I don’t think they should be studying those subjects in English.)

Friday I suggested to Kate and Lovely (Tony took Thursday and Friday off. We old native speakers are bad.) that we go out for pizza. We were lucky, as the restaurant was having a buy one, get one free promotion. The pizza was really good.

The summer course schedule was made, but they had to wait for Sister Viphaporn to approve it before distributing it. After lunch Friday, we learned what classes we will teach. I will teach 5^th and 6^th grades, sharing with Kru Irene. I tried to see her to talk about this, but she was not in her room. So I’m being very loose and not planning anything until I talk with her to see what she wants me to do. We had our assignments but no daily schedule. After school, the class schedules were posted on the bulletin board. 

I learned that summer hours are 8:00 to 4:00 (instead of 7:30 to 5:00). It is nice to go in later and get home earlier.

House Warmings (3-8)

Last weekend was a weekend of housewarmings. Saturday morning was the housewarming for Khun Dakom’s cousin’s new addition. She and her mother have rooms for rent and just built a new building with twelve more rooms. After the monks prayed, we had a seven-course breakfast that was quite good. Lots of fish. I was sent home with three bags of food, which is enough for the week for me.  

Sunday we went back to Khun Somlan’s for the official housewarming for his new house for his mother-in-law. Khun Dakom seated me at a table with people I don’t know, which was a little disappointing and uncomfortable, since what I enjoy about these events is hanging out with my friends. I realized later that he had done this to take care of me, as usual. They ate upstairs, sitting on the floor, after the monks finished eating what they wanted of the food offered to them. I started eating earlier and was seated on a chair at a table. The breakfast had nine different dishes. I practically ate a whole fish; so I didn’t need much food for the rest of the day. After eating, the karaoke began. I tried to sing a song, but the man wanted me to wait until a woman was finished and then the men started singing again; so I missed that opportunity. My contribution to the entertainment was dancing. I had a good time doing that, as usual. I danced with a woman who is a good Thai dancer. I can mimic the hand movements—sort of. I need to concentrate and, as I’ve said before, my hands will never be Thai. She kept trying to make my wrists and fingers bend back like hers do. Mine don’t. I told her my hands are American, not Thai. But we had a good time together. Other people kept telling me how well I dance. Well, maybe for a foreigner. I do enjoy it, though.

I started with a new student on Saturday. She is Khun Tang’s niece. Her parents came to see me last week to make arrangements for me to teach her. She’s in 4^th grade. They don’t know I’m leaving in two months, but I can work with her until then. One of her main difficulties seems to be lack of confidence. She seems to have a good vocabulary base, but, of course, she can’t speak much and isn’t used to thinking. My other three girls are still coming. I’ve written a number of simple dialogues and am running out of ideas for new language to use. They’ve gotten good at discussing what they do each week. It’s hard getting in gear to work at 5:00 after not working all day, but I enjoy them once they arrive and we get going. They come later and later; so I think we’ll all be ready to finish at the end of the month.

Wednesday was a holiday for Makka Bucha Day. On Saturday Khun Dakom had asked if I wanted to go to the village. I said I was thinking about going on Wednesday. So I went Tuesday evening for dinner—a wonderful meal of fish from their pond cooked by Khun Toy. She also made the special soup I like with leaves/herbs and ant eggs. We ate at the outside table. It was really nice to be there with them again.

As Khun Toy was getting my room at the cottage ready, we saw a rat go up the corner of the wall into the ceiling. It was a big one. Then, when I put my towel on the rack, I noticed one of the really big spiders behind the rack. Khun Dakom got a mop and chased after it and killed it. Fortunately, the rest of the night went without seeing any critters.

Wednesday morning Khun Toy and I left at 5:30 to go to Wat Hua Don. When we drove in, I noticed that the walking Buddha statue now has an umbrella. 






























We walked to the old temple to see progress on the roof. Then we joined the group for feeding the monks and a brief talk by Pra Tong. When we were eating, a woman came to talk to me in English. She was with the group from the Rice Research Institute who were there for the morning service. They were having a week-long conference in Ubon. Most of the people in attendance were with that group. I did see several of the old woman I knew from before, and they were all happy to see me again.

Pra Tong was giving out new t-shirts advertising the wat’s new website. All of the guests received one, as did we. Recipients had to complete a form. Khun Toy took shirts for all the extended family and completed everyone’s forms. Pra Tong told me that the wat is the heart smile group. I liked that name.

We returned to the village and visited friends before going to lunch at Khun Suwit’s farm. Khun Kasemsri invited me to the tamboons she’s organizing next month: one at her house for her daughter who just got a government job and one at the wat in Lue Amnat to build a Buddha in one day. The latter includes sleeping at the wat in our white clothes, which I haven’t used since I moved. She also invited me to join her and Aemmy to go to a special tamboon in Chaiyapum. It’s a three-day retreat that will be another opportunity to wear my white clothes. It will be nice to have some time with her in the car as well as to share that experience with her.

Khun Ying was also very happy to see me. She gave me some kao tom (sticky rice steamed in banana leaf). We went to my old house where she picked several low-hanging mangoes from the tree. I’d been missing them, as mango season is beginning and I no longer have a tree. When we were leaving, she wanted to give me some rice—about 20 pounds of it. Since I don’t eat white rice at home and I have enough other rice, I graciously thanked her and turned down her offer, saying I have enough rice. Khun Dakom had also asked if I need rice.

Lunch was at Khun Suwit’s farm and featured fish from his pond. Their granddaughter was there. I hadn’t seen her since I moved, and ten months is a long time in the life of a 26-month-old; so she didn’t remember me and looked at me like I was the strange-looking foreigner I am. After a while, though, she warmed up and we played peek-a-boo with the chair. When Khun Toy was picking leaves off tree stems, we both helped.

On the way back to the house, we stopped to visit Baibua, Khun Toy’s 8-month-old granddaughter. She was sleeping but they woke her up for our visit. It was good to see her again.

A couple minutes after Khun Dakom dropped me off to get a bus home, a car stopped and a young woman greeted me like she knew me and asked if I was going to Ubon. She and her friend gave me a ride. One of the young women is Khun Teamjan’s niece, whom I vaguely remember meeting one time, and the other is a daughter of another teacher. Sometimes it’s good to be recognized.

Being back in the village and spending the night and day with my friends reminded me how much I’ll miss them when I leave, and that time is coming soon. I started to go through this a little bit last year when I wasn’t sure what I would be doing, but now I know for sure that I will be leaving. Leaving my friends here will be hard, and I will miss them greatly. When I think about that, I know I miss friends in the U.S., but many of my good friends keep in touch by e-mail. And I know I’ll see them again. When I leave these friends, I won’t hear from them, and I may not see them ever again. That’s the difficult part. It will be the end of these connections, even though we’ll always remember each other in our hearts.