Continuing Adventures

Jackie Travels in SE Asia (2012): jekehl.blogspot.com

Jackie Goes to China (2013): jackieteachesinchina.blogspot.com

Final Days (4-28)

I am now officially retired, which I define as not seeking full-time, paid employment. I use this definition because I am seeking volunteer work.

This last week has been fairly quiet. We had to be at school every day, but most of us foreign teachers were pretty loose about it, scanning in and out but leaving for at least some of the time during the day. We had no official work to do. Kate was doing something in her record books on Thursday—recording check marks related to students’ skills. I hadn’t been given my record books; so I asked Kru Toom, who said she would do them for me. I took advantage of the looseness and went in late most days because I was getting ready to leave the house and I worked better in the morning than in the evening. One day I went for a haircut. Another I went for a 2-hour massage (cost 300 bahts, about $9). I knew the massage was needed when I noticed that there were more points than usual that hurt when she pressed on them. This is one of the things I’ll miss.

My/Our time at the school ended not as well as it could have. Sister Viphaporn and Sister Oranut were in the Philippines and didn’t return until Friday; so they didn’t arrange to have my—which became our when Tony and Lovely figured out that they could not be at school on Monday, either—salary ready Friday afternoon. This was especially irritating because I’d discussed with Sister Viphaporn twice that the 27^th would be my last day. So we had to go in Saturday morning to collect our salary. We agreed to meet at 9:00. Of course, they didn’t have the money ready, which was also a little irritating, as I had a lot to do that day. It took 45 minutes for the money to be given to us. Then they decided to take photos. I was not in the mood to be happy and do this, but I put a final smile for the school on my face.

When I got home, I cleaned the house. Final cleaning before moving out of a house is a really intimate act. As I clean in these situations, it becomes a way to thank the house for being a good home for me. Lovely and Xiel came in the afternoon to take their items. They wanted to take me out for lunch, and I could tell that this was important to them; so I went with them. It was nice to have the time with Lovely, as she hadn’t been at school most of the week, and it was nice to spend some time with Xiel, too. Khun Yindee and her husband took me for a last pad Thai at the mall. I’d eaten breakfast with Khun Dakom at Khun Somlan’s house. So I ate a lot on my last day.

I had my last class with Ammy on Thursday. She has been coming alone since Pu Pu dropped out last week. She came on Monday and was crying when she arrived. She cried for a while and said “no” when I asked what she wanted to do. Then she got up and left and didn’t come back. I don’t know what her problem was. Ammy became more talkative and asked a lot of questions. I know she has difficulty learning at the fast pace of class when she cannot ask questions and cannot process fast enough to keep up.

I had a guest in my bedroom this week—a tookay lizard. These are outside lizards that are about 10.5 inches long. It was in the bedroom two weeks ago when I returned from the funeral. That night it was also on the door in the living room. When I used a broom to guide it to the crack under the door so it could go outside, it ran back into the bedroom and hid. I figured that it found its way in; so it could find its way out. And I didn’t see it again for two weeks. Then it was on the wardrobe door Wednesday morning. When I walked in and saw it, it ran and hid behind the wardrobe. That made me wonder if it had been there for two weeks. When it made its call, it sounded really close. I thought it was on the wall outside the bedroom, where I’ve seen one before, but maybe it was on the wall inside the bedroom. That afternoon it was on the wall. At night it was on the living room wall near the door. I took the opportunity to help it go outside again. I opened the door and put the broom on the wall in front of it. It turned around and ran out the door quickly.

As I went through my things to sort and pack them, I missed having a thrift shop where I could take things I don’t want. Without that option, I’m taking more back to the U.S. than I might otherwise. I gave household items to friends. I’ll take some clothes to the Peace Corps lounge for new volunteers, but I can’t do that until September. So, I found myself packing most of the clothes. Some I think I’ll cut up for pillows or a quilt, as I won’t wear them in the U.S. and they aren’t a style that most Americans would wear these days. Thais can’t wear them to work because their dress on most days is dictated so they are standardized. I’m storing everything at Khun Yindee’s house while I travel. Then I can go through them again in September. I purchased a big box at the post office to mail clothes and a few other items back to the U.S. It will cost a lot (about $300 for the 20 kilos).  I took some household items to the new PC volunteer in the village, and Kate and Lovely took some. So I was able to find places for the household item.

Friday night there was a dinner at Khun Somlan’s house. Khun Dakom had told me I was invited to a dinner for me. It turned out to be for Khun Suwit’s and Khun Toy’s (Ubon) birthdays as well as for my departure. I took small, wrapped items for a grab bag gift like I did last year for teachers. Everyone had a good time; so I was glad I had done that. Two women carefully folded the wrapping, which was reused Christmas paper from Cheryl. Sometimes I don’t realize what will be considered special.

Surprise of the week: We got paid a stipend for teaching in the summer course. I thought it was just part of what was expected for our contract. So, we got our salary and the stipend. They’ve corrected that for next year, as the new contract has not salary for April; so teachers who teach in the summer course will get the stipend and then have two weeks unpaid vacation.

Weather: It was very hot most of the week. So hot that even at 6:00 AM I had to be near the fan or I would be sweating. Then Friday afternoon it rained. It was a major storm with heavy rain and very strong wind. It certainly cooled things down considerably.

Since I am leaving Thailand, this will be the end of this blog. The next one will be Jackie Travels, a record of my travels over the next several months. New address: jekehl55.blogspot.com. (It wouldn't let me use the other one, so I had to change it.)

Building a Buddha (4-22)

Last week was our vacation week from school. It went quickly, as usual. I managed to get some sorting and packing done and bought a new smart phone. Tuesday my neighbors took me to mail books to another former volunteer. We stopped at a clothing shop and ate lunch. Sister Angie invited us to lunch at her home on Wednesday. Thursday Khun Samaporn and her husband came to drive me to the village. This was a way for us to get together before I leave. Since I had access to a car, I gave her some things and took some things for Charlie, the new PCV in the village. As always, it was good to see her and her family.

This was my last visit to the village before leaving—more closure. Friday I hung out in the village while Khun Toy went to do some business. When I arrived at Khun Kasemsri’s house, Khun Kumton’s grandson called to me, ran over, and hugged me. He’s six years old now and can answer the question “How are you?” This is noteworthy because I’ve had 7th and 8th grade students who can’t do that. When I went to give something (the bedspread she had told me is beautiful) to Khun Ying and to visit another teacher, he walked with me, holding my hand. It surprises me that he still thinks of me as a good friend, since we hardly saw each other while I lived there and I’ve seen him only twice since I moved, but it’s nice. I got to chat with Aemmy for a while, which was good. Then Khun Teamjan took me to meet with Charlie. We had a good chat, too. It was a good day of hanging out with friends.

The event of the weekend and reason I went to the village was Khun Kasemsri’s tamboon to build a Buddha in one day. About 300 people attended the event. Khun Toy, Khun Teamjan, and I went to the Lue Amnat wat at 7:00 P.M. While people were arriving and waiting for the event to begin, there were a number of items being sold. Some of these were foil pieces on which you could write your name or someone’s name. Others were clay pieces on which people rubbed a small piece of gold foil. Both of these items would be put into the Buddha for good luck.

The event started at 8:00 with chanting/praying. Then a monk talked for about an hour. This was followed by more chanting/praying. At about 11:45, this stopped and people went to help start the building of the Buddha.

There was a pile of bricks on one side of the structure, and people carried them to the other side, where they would be put in buckets and conveyed to the platform where the building took place. Some people sifted sand to remove small stones.

Others mixed the cement. After the bricks were moved, most people sat down again and some went home.

The chanting/praying continued throughout the night. Mostly it was the monks and a group of women in the front. Unlike at previous events I’ve attended, everyone was not given a prayer book. Every fifteen minutes a gong was rung.

Five men on the platform did the building of the Buddha. At 3:00 A.M. we could see the bottom part—the folded legs—of the Buddha. At 4:00 the body core was formed. At 5:30 the form, except the head, was finished and they started covering it with cement. The people went home then. I slept really well for three hours.






This wasn’t a retreat like the other times I’ve stayed awake at a wat all night. The atmosphere was different. The chanting/praying was more like background for the work being done, not the main event as in a retreat. Many people lay down to sleep. I did that for a while, too. I also slept in a chair for a bit.

It had been decided that Khun Toy and I would rest on Saturday and not return to the event. I didn’t really want to sit there all day, but I was curious to know and see how the Buddha would be finished. We stopped by at 4:00 in the afternoon so I could see it. It looked like about 300 people there again. The Buddha was finished, complete with head. I would have liked to see how the head was done. I’m not sure what else needed to be done. I’ll have to go to see it in September when I’m back. Khun Yindee had told me that, at these build a Buddha in a day events, the work starts at 12:00 A.M and must be finished by 6:00 P.M.

Saturday morning Khun Toy and I went to visit a few people. I don’t know who the people were, but there was a wedding that she could not attend. A number of women were preparing food. Several dishes were put in front of me; so I ate. A 77-year-old man I didn’t know was very excited to chat with me—mostly in Thai with a few words of English. He really wanted to have a photo with me and held up his phone to ask someone to take a photo. When no one responded, I gave my camera to Khun Toy to take a photo and said I’ll give him a copy. He was quite pleased. Then another man came and used the man’s phone to take a photo of him and one of me. I’ll still have a print made of the one of us together.

We also stopped to see Baibua, which Khun Toy does twice a day. Baibua is enthralled with me. She can hardly stop looking at me. I guess I look different enough that it keeps her attention. I can’t help wondering what goes through her mind as she stares at me.

The other event of the weekend was a wedding dinner in Yassothon, about an hour from the village. The bride was the daughter of one of Khun Dakom’s friends. The groom’s mother thanked me—in English—for coming twice. I always find it interesting when people specially thank me for being there when I don’t even know them. This was my last big event dinner. We had our picture taken with the bride and groom. The dinner was eight courses: chips, appetizers, chicken, spicy fish, fish with spicy sauce, pork soup, noodles with mushrooms (instead of rice), and fruit. This was my last such dinner; so it seemed like a fitting event for my last week.

Sunday we made our last—for me—trip to the hospital to get our meds. We arrived at 7:45 and left at 12:30. Surprisingly, we saw our original doctor.

On the way to the hospital, I provided a bit of excitement. I had gone to the ATM to get cash and was slow to retrieve my card; so the machine took it back. (It was early morning after being sleep deprived Friday night.) Khun Teamjan called the emergency number for me. There was a computerized recording in English, but I couldn’t understand what it was saying and didn’t know which number I needed to push to address my problem. So, after the hospital, we stopped at the mall where the bank has a branch that’s open every day. The woman said it would take about 15 days to get my card to me. They could sell me a Visa card (450 bahts—about $13) but couldn’t give/sell me a new ATM card. Since I’m leaving at the end of the week, I can’t wait for 15 days and I don’t want a Thai credit card. So I decided to close the account. For that, they needed my passport, and the copy I had with me wasn’t good enough; it had to be the original, which I don’t carry with me. She said we could go to another branch, but it was time for lunch; so I said I could wait till Monday, since this was not an emergency; I knew where the card was. So we ate lunch and did a little shopping. To conclude this episode, I went to the bank Monday morning. A young man who speaks English took me down, opened the machine, and gave me my card, all in ten minutes.

Then we went to Khun Somlan’s house for the rest of the afternoon and dinner. Khun Dakom told me that they will have a party for me there Friday night. I wasn’t totally surprised, as I’d thought they would probably come for dinner that night or Saturday before I leave.

I told my neighbors that I am leaving. They said I can stay with them when I come back. That was sweet of them.

Khun Aporn told me that the tamboon the school had last week raised 1,500,000 bahts (about $50,000).

Songkran Part 2 (4-15)

When I woke up Friday morning, the bedroom was full of a sweet-smelling flower. I couldn’t figure out where it came from, as I’d left my jasmine garlands at school. I had actually noticed the scent Thursday night but was still associating it with the jasmine garlands we were given at school. When I out to close the windows before leaving Friday morning, I realized that the scent came from the neighbor’s flowering tree that is outside the bedroom window. The flowers are short-lived and were pretty much gone on Monday.


Songkran (the lunar new year and, in Thailand, a water festival) was on Friday. I went to the village to celebrate the holiday with Khun Toy and friends. My first Songkran experience of the day was at the shop where I used to buy bus tickets. I was waiting there for Khun Toy, and the man came out and poured water on my hands for Songkran. I was touched that he made the special effort to do that for me.

Friday afternoon Khun Toy and I went to the wat to show respect to the monks and old people (over 60). Khun Dakom had mentioned the possibility of my being included among the old folks, as I was two and three years ago. (Last year we went to Ban Chiang.) I was happy that no one else mentioned that, as I realized that I really wanted to pour water on the hands of all the old folks, most of whom I know, to show my respect of them.

After the abbot spoke to open the ceremony, the old folks stared the pouring of water. First, the Buddha images were splashed to clean and bless them. For Songkran, the old Buddhas are brought out to be cleaned.

Next the monks were shown respect by pouring water into their hands. Then the old folks were honored the same way or by pouring water on their shoulder. I poured water in their hands and on the shoulders of those I know well. Many people spoke to me and splashed some water on me, as well. I greeted each with a “sawadee-ka.” After several such greetings, it came to me that “sawadee” is used for both greeting and leaving; thus I was really saying “good-bye” to the folks as I was greeting them. My intention had been to do this as a “good-bye” to them. Of course, they don’t know that I am leaving the country, but I do, and I was glad to have this opportunity to say “good-bye” to them in this way. Another step of closure.

As I was walking out, several other people came to me and poured water on me. It was really nice. I did not know many of them, but they knew me. I suppose some were parents of students.

After we finished, Khun Toy stopped to show respect to her parents’ grave markers on the entrance to the wat. Then we started on the rounds to show respect to several old   folks. The first stop was her uncle and aunt.

Then we stopped at three other homes of people I don’t know. There was a small group gathered at each to show respect to the elder and then to have fun splashing water on everyone.

Children were standing beside the street in several places, ready to shoot or throw water on passers-by.

Saturday morning we went to the wat to feed the monks and eat breakfast. Later we went to the other wat. There were a few activities to raise money for the wat. We contributed to a few of the activities: a raffle in which I won a bottle of oil, which I gave to Khun Toy since I won’t be needing it; a general donation; and putting coins in a hundred bowls for good luck. When we arrived, we were the first ones to sit down. We waited half an hour till the monks came in. After a brief prayer, they were given their lunch trays, and we waited while they ate. Then the trays were brought to the rest of us. So we ate breakfast at one wat and lunch at another. I was wondering why we were there, as we didn’t take food for the lunch. Then Khun Toy commented on the tamboon, and I realized that’s why we were there: to make merit. Twice in the same day.

After leaving the wat, we stopped at the school’s fish pond. Several men were fishing, and a few women were cutting up the fish. People, including us, left with bags of fish.














In the afternoon we got ready for a big dinner, as the relatives from Bangkok who came for Songkran were coming for dinner. My contribution was rubbing leaves for Khun Toy’s special leaf soup. That’s how the broth gets green: I rubbed and rubbed and squeezed to get the chlorophyll from the leaves. Khun Toy had already prepared other bunches of cut up leaves. I was also allowed to peel the small onions for the soup. Then I was sent to relax. I was glad she let me do a couple tasks to help her.

Along with the soup, the dinner featured shrimp and squid the relatives had brought from Bangkok. Khun Dakom said it is better than those purchased locally because it is fresh. It was all so delicious that I ate way too much. The soup was especially delicious, and I could hardly stop eating it, which, of course, everyone noticed. I told them it was so delicious because an American had rubbed and squeezed the leaves.

The next part of the weekend plan was changed. The mother-in-law of Khun Toy’s brother in Ban Chiang died and they and Khun Suwit and Khun Teamjan were leaving for the funeral Sunday morning. I was, of course, invited to go along, but I had my students coming on Monday and Tuesday and I had a lot to do to get ready to leave. So I decided to come home. The school was having a tamboon on Sunday, but I decided not to go. I considered asking Khun Aporn to take me to the event and then to the bus, which she would have been happy to do, but I didn’t feel like waiting much of the day. If I were there, I could have greeted more teachers, but it would not have been a good time to chat with my friends, as they were busy with the events. So I stuck with my decision to return home.

After breakfast, we headed out on our separate ways. I had a moment of regret that I couldn’t go with them. But I also realized that the trip would entail two long days in the car and a night and day of funeral activities. So the main reason to have gone would have been to hang out with my friends longer. On the other hand, once I got home, I was really glad to be home and have time to myself and time to do things I needed to do here.

In the afternoon, I ventured to Big C to pick up a few things I needed. While waiting for a songtaew, which were scarce because of the holiday, I watched the near-by water activity. Pick-ups full of people and barrels of water came down the street. A young woman near the corner was throwing buckets of water on passing trucks, and they threw water or hosed her.





On the road into the shopping area, trucks of people were lined up to throw water. While I was figuring out how to get where I wanted to go without encountering too much water, I got sprayed in the back. I was surprised. I turned around to see who had done that, and there was a truck load of boys. I could imagine them sitting there wondering if they should shoot the old foreign woman or not. One did. When I looked at him, he smiled and waved, and I returned his smile. It’s all for fun, and it was really hot; so the water was nice and clothes dried quickly. When I was waiting for a songtaew to go home, I was shot at, too. The aim was to hit my plastic bag, which I thought was considerate. Again, we shared smiles. When a songtaew didn’t come for fifteen minutes, I decided to walk until one came. On the main road, I passed a small group of girls that included a couple former students. One came to me and poured water on my back. We laughed and smiled.

I was glad to have both the village and city experiences for my last—the fifth—Songkran. In the village, it’s mostly children who throw water from the street outside their homes. There were a few trucks going around. In the city, it’s mostly adolescents and young adults who drive around in trucks to throw water.

Mysteries:
I’ve transplanted several new banana trees that the old one produced. Two are on the side of the house where there is a neighbor across the fence. I put the second one there a few weeks ago, and it was doing well. Then one evening when I went to water it, it wasn’t there. I looked and couldn’t see it. I looked again the next day, and it wasn’t there and there was no sign of it. On the weekend, the woman across the fence told me that it wasn’t a good place for the tree because it was under the tree in her yard. I guess she sent someone over the fence to dig it up. I hope they planted it somewhere in their yard.

Sunday morning my watch wasn’t on the table in Khun Dakom’s guest house where I always put it at night. So I thought I must have taken it off in the house, but it wasn’t there. I asked Khun Toy for the guest house keys so I could look around to find my watch. It wasn’t on the floor or the table. I looked again in my things in the house and it wasn’t there. While I was taking a shower, I remembered the rat I’d seen last month and wondered if the rat wanted the watch. Khun Dakom went to the guest house with me. When we got there, he said he thought maybe the big rat (It’s actually a normal-sized rat, but Thai language uses the same word for rat and mouse, and I’ve explained that rats are big and mice are small.) took it. We looked more thoroughly and found it on the floor behind the headboard. The band was chewed, but at least I found it.

Songkran Part 1 (4-12)

The summer course is officially over. Thursday was the last day. Since it was the day before the Songkran holiday, many students were not there. The day began with a Songkran activity. Students and teachers wore colorful shirts for the holiday. (Teachers had been wearing black and white the rest of the week in mourning for the king’s cousin.)

Tony and I were told to sit in the front with the sisters. I think that’s because we are old, and on Songkran people traditionally show respect to the monks and the elders. Teachers either brought or were given jasmine wreaths to give to the statue of Mary. We also showed respect by pouring water on the statue, as Buddhists do to the Buddha images.

Then teachers poured water on the hands of those of us in the front. Some also gave us jasmine wreaths or necklaces. All said words of blessing, and many said a few words in English, which was nice of them. When they finished, a line of students came to each of us and poured water.

Then everyone formed a circle and danced around and many photos were taken.

The last part of the activity was thanking us foreign teachers and Sister Chutima, who is going to another school. We were each given a bag/purse. The three students in each class who received the top points from their summer course exams were given gifts, too. Fortunately, I had given a review “test” on Wednesday, thinking we could go over it quickly on Thursday. Word that we were to give a test Wednesday hadn’t reached me.










Then we had the last two classes of the morning. Since I knew students would not be in the mood to study, I took my Bingo game and we played. They disappeared very quickly when it was time to go, as students were finished at noon and had no afternoon classes. Two boys stayed and finished cleaning up. They were a good group. They all tried to do the work and did little copying even though a few of them have very low skills.

Teachers, however, did have to work until 4:00. Sister Angie, Kate, Tony, and I went out for lunch. Lovely had already made plans to meet a friend. It was nice to eat together and have a relaxing lunch outside the school.

The administration could have been nice and given teachers a half day off before the holiday, but instead they had a teachers’ meeting. It’s things like this that lead to many teachers leaving. Khun Toom told me that most of the good teachers are going to other schools.

On the way home I noticed a parade coming down the street and stopped to watch it and take a few photos of my last parade here. After a few minutes, I noticed that a woman was waving at me. It was Khun Kwan, who was helping carry a banner.

Other people waved at me, too. I was the only person standing still watching the parade and talking photos. It was really hot to be walking in a parade.










Monday I saw Bitoy’s report card and the lack of any mention of the Intensive English program stood out. I knew that our grades count for only 20% of the final grade, but seeing it really rubbed in the fact that our classes basically count for nothing. There is no mention of the IE program on the report card. Thus parents pay extra money to have their children in this program and receive absolutely no feedback as to how they are doing. I’d realized that the 8th grade students had probably figured out that their grades for my class didn’t affect them much when I noticed that their behavior became worse and they worked less. Even some of the pretty good students did less second term. They knew they didn’t need much from my classes, as their grades in the Thai teachers’ classes would be good enough. Realizing all of this again made me glad I won’t be part of it in the next school year.

American parents would be in the school office demanding to know how their students are doing in the special program; Thai parents/people don’t question or confront. But this may be why some good students are leaving the school. Kru Toom told me last week that about forty students have left and only eighteen new students have enrolled. Sister Angie said that there will be only one 7th grade class again; there were three 6th grade classes. Kate said that Sister Viphaporn told her that there may be only one IE class instead of two for some of the elementary grades.

They are using the same bad English books again next year. These books are some of the worst I’ve seen. The elementary books are full of English language errors. But they are Catholic produced. I wondered if the author or the sales representative is related to or a friend of Sister Viphaporn’s. The school received examination copies of several other texts, but teachers did not select the texts. These will sit on the shelves of the teachers’ resource library and will not be used except to copy an occasional exercise. When I learned this, it made me even more glad that I will not be at the school next year. Most of us foreign teachers didn’t use the bad texts, but the Thai teachers did. Thus the program was not coordinated and students had different skills presented by the different teachers.

So I am ready to move on. I spent a lot of time this week planning the first part of my travels in Vietnam. Now I need to divest myself of a bunch of things in the house and decide what goes with me to Vietnam and what will stay here to go to the U.S. later. Kate and Lovely will take a lot of the household items. I’ll mail books to a former PCV who teaches at a good (She describes it as a “better, not good, school.”) school where students speak and read English and the books will be used. Personal items will be stored at Khun Yindee’s house while I’m traveling. Dealing with this will be my project for the vacation next week.

Retreat at Wat Hua Don (4-10)

Last weekend was an official Thai government holiday long weekend. The holiday was on Friday, and another was added on Monday in respect of the funeral of the king’s cousin. However, this school decided to have classes on Friday and have only the Monday holiday. Since I’d already planned to go to the retreat, I didn’t work on Friday, which was fine since I don’t have class on that day anyway.

Earlier in the week Aemmy called to tell me the plans for going to the retreat in Chaiyapum. I felt a little regret that I couldn’t join them, as I’d told both Khun Toy and Phra Kong that I’d go to Wat Hua Dong. But in general I was happy with my plan. When I talked to Khun Kasemsri on Monday and learned that they had changed plans again and spent only one night at the wat and most of the time on the road, I was glad I wasn’t on that journey. I realized during the retreat that my time there was about closure, which is appropriate since I am getting ready to leave. Going to Chaiyapum would have been interesting and fun, but it would have been a new experience. And closure is what I need to be doing now.

Thursday night I went to Khun Toy’s house so I would be there to leave early (5:30 AM) Friday morning. We had dinner at Khun Suwit’s farm. Khun Dakom went to the wat with us because his brother and nephew were becoming temporary monks. Khun Teamjan also went with us for the day. First, of course, was breakfast. While we were gathered, a bowl was passed around for monetary donations. I saw this for the first time when we were there last month. I guess it’s another way to collect money, like churches do.




While we were waiting for the ceremony to begin, Khun Dakom and I walked to see the completed new building/roof over the old temple. I learned that the old temple is 300 years old and that one purpose of the weekend retreat was to dedicate the new roof.

Then the initial ceremony for the four new temporary monks began. They were still dressed in white. Families of all four were present. The initiates bowed to their mothers to be blessed by them. Then most of us walked to the old temple to see the new roof.

The ordination ceremony was at Wat Supat in Ubon. I remembered this from the last ordination I attended and remembered that it is there because Phra Kong is not yet advanced enough to conduct ordinations. Our group joined two other new monks for the ceremony. After the initial part, three sat down and three stood in the door. They were asked and answered a number of questions as a group and then individually. The three sitting did not do this. After the ordination, people lined up and contributed money to the new monks. Then we returned to Wat Hua Don.

Friday evening we gathered at the old temple. We started with a walking meditation through the forest for about 45 minutes. This was followed with a half hour of sitting meditation. Phra Kong talked to the group of about 60 people. Afterwards, we retired to our sleeping quarters at 9:00. Many of us slept in the building with relics of a previous monk. Others slept in tents in two areas that had been set aside for that purpose and had a layer of straw on the ground. Others slept in the eating building and in unused monks’ houses.

We awoke at 3:00 Saturday morning for early chanting/praying until 5:30. Then a break before giving alms food to the monks and eating breakfast.

Breakfast was served buffet style. We filled our bowls and then sat down and waited until everyone was seated. Then we all ate together in silence. At 9:00, we gathered for the morning activities: walking and sitting meditation and a short talk. Then a break and lunch. This was repeated in the afternoon except for the eating, as there was no dinner. We again at the old temple and other people came as well. About a hundred people were there. The key event was a talk by a guest monk.

Sunday was pretty much the same in the morning and afternoon. Sunday afternoon, I started to sit on a chair, as my knees were really hurting when sitting on the floor and I knew I couldn’t/shouldn’t stress them any more. After the talk, we helped tie strings hanging from the grid that had been prepared before our arrival. It was fun to help with that task and the job got finished quickly.

Many more people came for the Sunday evening program—about 300 in all. I think this was the official dedication of the building. Another guest monk spoke. Afterwards, about half of the people left. The rest of us stayed for the all-night of chanting/praying. About midnight, I started nodding off for a bit. During the 12:30 break, I did walking meditation, which woke me up and enabled me to stay awake until we dispersed at 3:30. Prior to going to our sleeping quarters, people cleaned up the area. Again, the job was finished quickly.

Sunday night there was a five-year-old boy who was being a monk. He was the recipient of a lot of attention. They had him answer a few questions in English for me. I learned that his father is from Denmark and his mother is Thai. I’m not sure why he was being a monk. He sat in the temple with Phra Kong for a short while. When the main speaker came, he was brought back and sat in his place at the back of the monks. I felt a little strange about this, as he seems quite young to be doing this. I’m not sure how much he really understands about what he was doing. On the other hand, the Dali Lamas of Tibet are identified as babies or very young children and brought up as monks. But that is not Thai culture, and it is not what this boy was doing.


We slept until morning alms at 6:00 Monday moring. Afterwards, there was breakfast and we went home.
I am really glad I had this experience. It really helped me begin to wrap up my life here and bring it to closure. I was glad to do it at this wat and with Khun Toy. Other women from the nearby village greeted me. The two nuns I met last year were there, and the one and I had a special bond. When I left, she asked when they would see me again. When I said I wouldn’t see her again because I’m leaving, she wished me good luck. Khun Dakom’s sister and I talked a bit. I’ve met her a few times but never had a chance to chat with her; so that was nice, too.  And I always love walking in the forest; so the abundance of walking meditation was especially good for me.

We returned to the village and slept. In the afternoon, Khun Toy and I went to the wat for the gathering for the funeral of the king’s cousin who died about nine months ago. Since this was a royal funeral, it was a big deal in the country. Government employees wore their special white uniforms—with black skirts or pants instead of white ones. I was seated with Khun Ying in the back, as only government employees in white or the general khaki uniforms could sit in their groups in the front. The ceremony began at 4:30. There were several TV screens so people could watch it. I could hardly see, and I’m sure people farther back couldn’t see the ceremony at all. After the king lit a token fire, we walked to the table under a banner featuring the woman and placed the paper flowers we were given on the table. While I was in line, I noticed a young, white man farther ahead. Later, the mayor told me that they have a new volunteer who will work with the community for two years. Khun Yindee confirmed that he is a Peace Corps Volunteer.

Then we went home for dinner. In the evening, there was a stage show while we waited for the cremation to begin. Khun Yindee and Khun Kasemsri were, of course, the MCs. Five schools had groups of student dancers. Most of the local teachers were there, as they were required to attend. A few teachers from other schools came, and there were about twenty people who came from the community. Not a big hit. At 10:30, we watched on TV as the cremation fire was lit. Then we went to the local crematory and a monk lit a fire in a bowl there. Royalty and monks are burned at night.

Half Way (3-30)

My orchid is blooming for the last time for me. Two others are starting to send up flower shoots, but they won't bloom till I'm gone.















The summer course is half over; two of the four weeks are finished. I can’t complain about the work load: I am teaching four hours a week. The original schedule had me teaching eight hours of 5th and 6th grades along with Kru Irene. The first day she mentioned having a reading and writing test on the last day of classes. I asked if we were teaching reading and writing, since the book that Kru Toom had prepared for 6th grade was grammar exercises. Kru Irene said maybe we would have some short paragraphs. I also mentioned that we should teach the vocabulary before doing the exercises and that it’s a good idea to have reading, writing, and grammar coordinated to use the same vocabulary and structures. A few hours later, Kru Toom told me that I will teach 6th grade and Kru Irene will teach 5th grade. When I asked if that was because Kru Irene didn’t want to work with me, she gave a noncommittal answer that they thought it would be better. Kru Irene is very controlling and most likely didn’t like my having suggestions that weren’t the same as hers. I can’t complain about the lighter schedule and the lack of frustration from trying to work with her and actually teach the students, not just complete grammar exercises without further practice.

My class has twelve students: three girls and nine boys. After talking with Kru Toom, I scratched the grammar exercises and am teaching basic questions—reading, writing, and speaking—and the grammar structures that go with them. A few of the students are OK with what I’m teaching. Others can do it with effort. And a few can’t do it without assistance (i.e. copying) from their friends. I’m pretty sure several of the boys are ADHD; they have the attention span of a fly. So, keeping them on task is a challenge.

Kru Irene is the only Thai teacher teaching English in the summer course, which I find interesting. Other than her class, all English classes are taught by us foreign teachers. The other teachers teach six to eight hours a week. None of us are overworking. We spend a lot of time on the Internet. I read books. The others play computer games. The time passes, although we do get bored.

The other part of our summer course assignment is to do morning entertainment (our word, not the official description) for half an hour. We’ve divided into two groups; so we each have to do this only twice a week. The Chinese teachers do it one day, too. It’s Sister Viphaporn’s idea that students will learn some English—or Chinese—this way. But the reality is that they do not pay attention and do not respond and participate. So it’s basically a waste of time.

In general, people are friendlier now than they were during the term. Less stress overall. More teachers greet me, often in English. In our office, we chat a bit more. I was aware how much the 8th grade classes’ behavior affected me, but not having to deal with that has made me even more aware of how they affected my whole manner.

Sunday I decided to go to the village. My weekend students didn’t come on Saturday or the weekend before; so I didn’t feel obligated to stay home waiting for them on Sunday. (They paid for the month when I saw them the first weekend.) I had been thinking about having Khun Noi make some skirts from my Laos fabric and decided that Sunday was the day to take it to her. When Khun Toy and Bitoy met me in Lue Amnat, she immediately suggested that I stay for dinner and the night. When she said that Bitoy would cook dinner for me, I knew I had to stay. We went to see Khun Noi and visited Khun Ying. Then we went to meet Khun Teamjan at her relative’s farm. I relaxed and read and slept in the hammock while they chatted and slept and Khun Toy had a massage.

For dinner, Bitoy and I were a team to make shrimp and flower tempura. I’d not had fried flowers before. Khun Toy picked them from her trees. Bitoy and I are a good team. She’s at the age (10-12) when students here seem to relate most to me. They have enough confidence to use the bit of English that they know, and we can joke around and have fun. Khun Toy cooked a chicken and made the ant egg and pak wan (Thai herb) soup that I like. Khun Teamjan and Khun Suwit joined us for dinner, of course.

The dinner was the perfect thing for her to cook for me. Earlier in the week I’d had a dream that I was in Flagstaff and my friends took me to one of the Thai restaurants. When the menus came, they asked me what was good and what my favorite Thai food is. I could only think of the foods that Khun Toy cooks, such as the fish or chicken wrapped in leaves or lettuce and served with her special, homemade peanut sauce, that are not on the menu. Or, if a variation, such as lettuce wrap, is on the menu, it wouldn’t be the same to me. So, her serving the chicken wraps with lettuce and her peanut sauce was my dream dinner. I told her about the dream, and I think she understood the gist—that I will miss her cooking. Her summary was that, when I am in the U.S., I will think about and miss my Thai friends. Which is true.

I was glad I went and glad I stayed for dinner and the night. It’s always so nice to be with them. Khun Adin drove me home in the morning. Khun Toy got up early to cook fried fish and sticky rice for our breakfasts and noodles and tofu and rice for our lunches. I will miss her food as well as her.

Khun Yindee called me last week to tell me that I can’t go to the retreat in Chaiyapum with Khun Kasemsri. Khun Kasemsri didn’t want to tell me the bad news; so Khun Yindee got that job. Someone had to tell me sometime. The reason I can’t go with her is that she is going to Korat afterwards and is not coming directly home; so I would have to take a bus alone. I refrained from pointing out that I travel by bus alone all the time and it’s fine with me, as I know Thai thinking is that leaving me on my own would not be being a good hostess/friend. Khun Yindee had also been talking with Khun Toy, who wanted me to go to Wat Hua Don with her; so that’s the new plan. I was disappointed not to be able to go with Khun Kasemsri, as I’d looked forward to spending the time with her and Aemmy as well as to going to the retreat in a new place. On the other hand, I do like Wat Hua Don and am always happy to be with Khun Toy. A few days later I got an e-mail and Facebook invitation to the retreat at Wat Hua Don from Phra Kong. Then Khun Toy called to tell me she wants me to go with her. She was so excited that my enthusiasm overcame the disappointment. I’ll go to the village the night before and have dinner with everyone and pick up my new clothes, which will also be fun.

My new student came three times and then brought her 7th grade cousin along. Then they asked if they can come every day now that school is out. I agreed, since I enjoy them and we finish school earlier. Also because I’m not really working much at school and am not exhausted when I arrive home. They’ve been fun to work with. Pu Pu is smart and sharp. Ammy reminds me of former LD students who are slow processing. She’s not as confident but sometimes answers correctly when Pu Pu doesn’t. They’re different but get along and work together well.